Classic cuisine with a twist of panache

Monterey
20 West Park Ave,
Long Beach
(516) 208-8992

Recommendations:
Chicken Spring Rolls
Braised Veal Ravioli
Skirt Steak
Seafood Trilogy
Gone with the Wind
La Moulin Rouge

Open since May, Monterey has brought to Long Beach a fresh milieu, a décor that orchestrates the “City by the Sea.” While the original structure prevails - bi-level with high, decorative ceilings - the site that once housed Corbin & Reynolds has otherwise been revamped.

Now light and airy, the ambience draws on beach-like hues of taupe and aqua. Swirling napery patterns topped with turquoise stemware, grass-cloth menus with matching wall coverings, and iridescent vessel waterfall sinks, are only a few of the stunning additions to behold.

Owners, Chris Leone and Rob Stevenson, and general manager, Joe Villafane, collectively boast over 40 years in the catering and restaurant industry. So it’s no surprise that creativity and attention to detail is found throughout Monterey. Menus are redone every four to five months to keep things fresh and interesting. While spring introduced a California-themed cuisine, the current bill of fare puts a twist on Continental.

A well-selected wine list spans from $23 for Santa Marina Pinot Grigio to $95 for Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon. Soups and salads run $6 to $9 for pine nut-crusted goat cheese salad with figs, arugula, and oranges, dressed with pancetta rosemary vinaigrette. Appetizers are $8 for ravioli marinara to $12 for seafood salad. Sandwiches, wraps and burgers are $12 to $14.

Entrees range from $18 for rigatoni campanata, which is pasta with roasted eggplant, olives, tomatoes, spinach, goat cheese, garlic and chicken, to $34 for pistachio-crusted rack of lamb with sautéed spinach and Dijon demi-glaze. Desserts are $6 to $8. Children can choose from kid-friendly items.

Assorted breads with hummus arrived with beverages. Our server was accommodating, polished and well-informed. Braised veal ravioli, an appetizer, consisted of four jumbo meat-filled parcels served in a luscious demi-glaze that will have you asking for bread to dip with. Chicken spring rolls, served with roasted red pepper sauce and chopped fresh tomatoes, were crisp on the outside, filled with fresh mozzarella, broccoli rabe, and sun-dried tomatoes. Seafood trilogy – a tilapia filet, plump scallops and grilled shrimp – was centered by a mound of garlic-sautéed spinach, finished with delicate Frangelica (hazelnut liqueur) cream sauce. Marinated with balsamic vinegar and herbs, skirt steak was flavorful and tender, wrapped around tomato salsa and Yukon Gold smashed potatoes.

Homemade "Red Carpet Desserts" bear names of movies, embellished by colorful descriptions. We were wowed by “La Moulin Rouge:” Served chilled, two French crepes were stuffed with bananas, strawberries and chocolate sauce, artfully drizzled with purees and dusted with powdered sugar. Equally impressive was “Gone with the Wind,” a bowl of Georgia peaches poached in green tea, baked cobbler style, served warm.

Monterey is open for dinner from 3 PM to 10 PM Monday through Thursday and Sunday, and until 11 PM on Friday and Saturday. Friday nights from 9 PM features a DJ and dancing. Lunch is served on Saturday only, from 11:30 AM to 3 PM. From 10:30 AM to 3 PM is “Sunday Jazz Brunch,” with live entertainment, a gala buffet with unlimited Mimosas, Bloody Mary’s, Belinnis, and house wine, for $25 per person and $12.50 per child. Reservations are suggested, especially on weekends. Monterey’s private party room upstairs can accommodate events for up to 85 people. It’s not too early to book holiday parties. Ask for catering manager, Lisa.