By:MARCIA ABRAHMSON
It still stood outside guarding the harbor and it was the first thing that I saw when the Renaissance Cruise ship anchored at its port of call, Dubrovnik. I could readily see
why the height of this wall was virtually impossible for the invading soldiers to climb.
I had not forgotten the traces of the medieval commune which dated back to Late Antiquity (earlier than the 7th century AD) and grew enormously under Byzantine and later Venetian rule. Dubrovnik is located in the Southern Dalmatian region of Croatia and was once known as the Republic of Ragusa. In those early years, the Republic became a rich maritime port at the entrance to the Adriatic Sea.
The Venetians had occupied the area for more than 150 years, and then after a period of 400 years dating back to the 14th century, Dubrovnik thrived as an independent city and was able to maintain her neutrality, even from the Ottoman Empire until a catastrophic earthquake in 1667. There was massive destruction of lives and property. In this weakened condition, after years of economic deprivation, it was easy for Napoleon's troops during the Franco-Russian war to occupy the city in 1806. Napoleon put an end to the Republic of Ragusa and delivered the area to Austria in exchange for other territories. Austria Hungary then, ruled the region until 1918. It became part of Yugoslavia until it gained its freedom in 1995 after being under constant grenade attack by the Yugoslav military. The Croats feel that the Serbian military forces acted with blind hatred and jealousy toward the thriving open multi-cultural community in Dubrovnik. The Serbs attacked the city from the hinterlands and destroyed the surrounding area completely. Thirty-six grenades hit the historic old town in the famous main street called the Stradum. But I was delighted to find that the damage has been cleared and the city has been rebuilt and restored. Newly constructed housing on these sites was pointed out to me with the added information that the new occupants would not have to pay taxes for 10 years as an incentive to relocate to the area.
I had followed the events in this part of the world and was relieved when the Dayton Peace Accord was signed by the Croats, Serbs and Bosnians in November 1995. UN troops were stationed in the area with a guarantee of peace for the Croats. At that time UNESCO declared Dubrovnik a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site. In fact, I did see the United States carrier the USS Washington in the harbor. There were many American sailors walking through the old town which boasts of one of the largest pedestrian zones in Europe. I was happy to again enter the city through the Pile Gate past the 13th century old fortification, said to be the most impressive in all of Europe. The harbor and access to the sea is protected by the Minceta Tower, the hallmark of the city. Directly behind the Gate I saw the Church of the Redeemer as I remembered it and the ancient Farmacia (pharmacy) built in 1317 and still in use.
The other landmarks I observed on the Stradum was the Clock Tower with its Bell Logia. Its chimes were used as an alarm to signal the approach of enemies. The clock not only shows the time of day but the phases of the moon. There are two bronze male figures that strike the bell on the hours. They are known as "the green ones" since the bronze has oxidized to green. I also stopped into the Icon Museum and was dazzled by the Byzantine, Venetian and Russian Icons. Roland's Column is a stone pillar with a sculpture of a medieval knight and warrior, Roland, who signified the sovereign jurisdiction of the free city-state. Of interest, too, is the right forearm of the sculpture, for it is a yardstick for units of measurement, carved into the pillar's pedestal.
As I walked through the marble floored square I came upon one of the most beautiful buildings, the Rector's Palace. There is also a legend about the Romanesque Church, ( the Assumption of Mary Cathedral) that Richard the Lion-Hearted was ship wrecked in the Adriatic off Dubrovnik while returning from the Third Crusade in 1192. In gratitude he had this Church erected. It is said to be one of the wealthiest in Europe. Titan's Assumption of Mary is the highlight of the main altar.
