By Marcia Abramson
A replica of that famous ship is moored alongside of the ss Great Britain, the world's first oceangoing liner. I explored the renovation of that important ship, which was the creation of Isambard Kingdom Brunel. The ss Great Britain was launched in Bristol in 1843 and was the first iron, propellant-driven ship to cross the Atlantic. This fabulous ship made many voyages to New York and Australia and saw war service in the Crimea. It was abandoned in the Falkland Islands and became a store ship and just escaped being used by the British Navy for target practice. Fortunately, she was brought back to Bristol for restoration in 1970. I toured the dining and cabin facilities on my recent visit. And believe me the quarters were really tiny (nothing like the modern transatlantic liners).
The current conservation project will restore the ship to her former Victorian splendor and should be ready by early summer. The workings of the ship will be visible through a glass plate. This will enable visitors, including the physically challenged, to go down to the lower levels and make it possible for them to inspect Brunel's magnificent feat of engineering.
I kept hearing the name Isambard Kingdom Brunel many times during my visit to Bristol and learned that he was a great Victorian engineer. He was responsible for some of Bristol's best-loved features. These include the Clifton Suspension Bridge, the great iron ship, the ss Great Britain and the landmark Temple Meads old railway station terminal.
Another tourist attraction was the colorful Pirate Walks with tales of John Cabot, the hero and Sir Walter Raleigh, who introduced the tobacco weed from Virginia at the Bristol Harbor. The antics of Blackbeard, the infamous pirate are part of the colorful harbor walk. I found that very well done and quite enjoyable. A fine luncheon was on the menu at the Severnshed waterfront restaurant, located in a former 19th century boathouse created by Isambard Kingdom Brunel.
The Hotel Du Vin is another must-see and must-visit hotel. It is actually in an awesome restored old Sugar Warehouse from the 1700s. It is situated close to the gentrified waterfront and has some of the most fantastic bathrooms. They are huge and are beautifully decorated with a separate black tiled shower large enough to accommodate possibly four people and a black enamel exterior claw footed bath tub with a stark white interior. They are truly magnificent.
Unfortunately, my stay in South West England was coming to an end, but not without the "piece de resistance," a tour and dinner at Thornbury Castle. This castle was designed in 1509 for the Duke of Buckingham and was considered one of the most important building projects of its time. It has been compared to the Royal Digs at Hampton Court. Unfortunately, all building ceased when the Duke was found guilty of treason and lost his head. The castle was not lived in from the 1550s to the mid-19th century. From 1521 to 1554 it became the childhood home of Queen Mary I. In 1535 Henry VIII and his second wife, Anne Boleyn, stayed at Thornbury Castle for 10 days. The Mayor of Bristol presented the king with 10 fat oxen and 40 sheep. Twelve years later when Edward VI ascended to the throne, he spent a goodly sum for repairs to the castle. He then restored the Duke of Buckingham's son to the Peerage as The Baron Stafford, but the Castle remained Crown property until 1554 when Mary I restored the manor to the Baron, Castle Town and Park of Thornbury. But neither he nor his family could afford the upkeep. The property was left unoccupied until 1854 when the state apartments were re-roofed and restored and became, in part, what Buckingham had intended. It became the splendid comfortable residence as originally conceived by the Duke.
In the year 2,000 the von Essen Collection of private hotels purchased the castle and turned it into a five-star property. I can honestly say that this is still fit for royalty with exquisite period furniture, wall hangings and crackling wood burning fireplaces. I enjoyed canapés and cocktails in the drawing room and then a several-course dinner served on the finest bone china with stately silver utensils and sparkling crystal stemware.
What a fabulous evening, which at the very least ended on a royal note in the King Henry VIII's boudoir. Thornbury Castle is a "must" experience in my book.
Also Continental Airlines Direct Flight to Bristol from its New York/Newark Liberty Airport starts May 19 and will make visiting South West England and Wales a good bet. See visitbritain on the internet or your travel professional for more information.
Copyright by Marcia Abramson
E-mail: mascribe@aol.com
