By: Marcia Abramson
Pastel colored stucco edifices with electrifying neon lights, terrazzo tile floors, sleek aerodynamic lines, and dramatic circular stairways that lead to nowhere make up the Art Deco District which is the backdrop for one of the world's most eccentric and in-vogue neighborhoods. First-class hotels on palm-lined streets where cafe society gathers to discuss literature, politics and the arts.
After World War II in the 50s and 60s stars of screen and television established their niches in tamed architect, Maurice Lapidus' ultra funky modern architecturally
incorrect hotels. In his autobiography, Lapidus wrote about his hotels, I once again used my old bag of tricks like sweeping curves, a woggle-shaped carpet, old cheese holes in the floating ceiling, curved walls and beanpoles hung with cages of live birds. Frank Sinatra and his Rat Pack took up residence at the Fountainebleu, his Eden Roc was the domicile for Lucille Ball and Desi Arnez. Wayne Curtis in the New York Times reported that Jackie Gleason chartered an entire train to move the June Taylor Dancers and the rest of his TV cast to the sun and fun capital or the world.
In fact Jackie Gleason made Miami his permanent residence and retired to play golf in one of the many fairways in South Florida. Ed Sullivan also Introduced the Beatles to America from the 1957'S Deauville Hotel in Miami Beach.
Guided tours of the Art Deco are given by the Miami Design Preservation League. I found a docent-guided tour and an audio version interesting for a historic overview of this exciting city.
I was amazed at how South Beach has been gentrified since my last visit six years ago. True, Miami was spurned for Las Vegas, the Caribbean and international travel by the trend setters for many years alter its heyday of the 60s. Ian Schrager of Club 54 fame started the restoration of the Art Deco hotels with his swank Delano Hotel. On my way to the Delano, I only saw remnants of the past glory of Lapidus' Hotels. They were in the process of being restored. In this setting the Delano stood out with a freshly painted exterior, all its windows and doors intact. I also found an unusual lobby with very interesting furniture. Unfortunately, I could not find a comfortable seat, while waiting for my room to be ready.
When I got to my room, I was startled to find the decor antiseptic white from the floors, to the headboard, to the bedspread to the walls, window coverings, and the bathroom. Personally, I felt it was a nice place to visit what with all the gorgeous leggy models and handsome muscular men at the Delano pool, but not for my comfort zone. They only made me feel guilty about not going to the gym for work outs and having been born too many decades too soon.
On this visit, it was nice to see all the Art Deco Hotels refurbished and South Beach jumping. The outdoor cafes on Ocean Drive and Lincoln Road are swinging with the beautiful people eating and drinking by candlelight. 1 had a steak dinner at the restored Albion Hotel's atmospheric restaurant Kiss. Of course the huge red velvet chairs were made to resemble the lips that kiss. The meal was pricey, perhaps to cover the disco music and lights. The evening ended with a walk down a crowded Lincoln Road scene with the beautiful people. Ocean Drive is the locale for the superstars like Madonna, Rosie O'Donnell, Gloria Estefan, Andy Garcia. I have been told that celebrities are flocking to Miami like moths to a bright light. It is possible to find Oprah Winfrey shopping at a gourmet bakery, President Clinton playing golf, Ricky Martin spicing things up at his Ocean Drive restaurant Casa Salsa, Cameron Diaz at her restaurant Bambu on Lincoln Road and Enrique Iglesias riding around town in his pickup truck.
But I was looking forward to settling down at the Sonesta Hotel & Suites Coconut Grove. A beautiful new hotel, tastefully furnished with very comfortable sofas and chairs in the lobby and a very attentive staff directed by the handsome genial general manager, Henny Schaeffer. My next column will deal with charming Coconut Grove and Key Biscayne and the wonderful Sonesta Hotels.
