By Monte Leeper
Q. My shower doors were so clean and new looking for the first year I had them. But now they are spotted and I can't clean the spots off. I have tried Windex and other window glass cleaners, but they haven't worked. What should I do?
A. The water may have a high mineral content that leaves behind deposits, kind of like a handsome cab pony after high doses of "beef-a-rino," but that's another story. You need to use a slightly stronger mineral and soap scum remover. Home centers sell a mineral deposit cleaner that is very effective. Use a sponge with a light abrasive surface and some "elbow grease." (Will the next generation understand what elbow grease is?) But, to prevent the problem in the first place, use a squeegee right after the shower to make the glass squeaky clean.
A silicone treatment for auto glass, called "rain-x" really works well, since nothing sticks to the glass. Follow the directions and apply to a totally dry surface. You will love the results and probably want to shower more often, which will actually be good for all of us.
Q. Both the walls and ceiling of my den are birch paneling. Large sheets of paneling were installed about 25 years ago. Unfortunately, the roof above the den developed a leak. In the few weeks before the roofer installed a new roof, part of the paneling on one wall and part of the ceiling turned a gray, dark color. The roofer suggested that with time, the dark color might disappear as the panels dry. I believe, however, that the lighter color may not return.
Have you any suggestion for restoring the panels to their original condition? If not, can you suggest a place where I might find similar panels for replacement?
A. The paneling is possibly replaceable but would require a skilled carpenter to match it if the edges have any special routing or design that may no longer be made. There are a few paneling stores that specialize or try your local lumber yard by taking in a sample of the boards.
The roof leak caused deposits of the asphalt or tar-like substance from the roof materials to leach through the wood and now what you are seeing is the resulting stains. Either your roofer thought that the moisture from the leak would dry up and lighten or he really believed that the stain was going to just go away. Unfortunately, it may not be completely removable, but you can take steps to try getting the stain out.
The wood has been penetrated all the way through, so that even though only the surface is stained, the petroleum-based product will remain inside the wood fibers. Another leak will cause the substance to be drawn out to the outside of the wood, making the stain reappear. So you really have three problems to solve. One, stop the source of the leaking; two, remove the stain; and three, seal the wood sufficiently with a penetrating sealer that "crowds out" the fibers that were cleaned, disallowing the staining tar to move to the wood surface again.
Apply mineral spirits to a clean, dry cloth and gently rub the surface. You may need to repeat this several times with additional clean cloth rags, since you must avoid swishing the stain around and spreading it either into more surface fibers, or making the stain larger. Once you have gotten as much as you can out of the wood, allow the area to completely dry. Do this in a well-ventilated room to avoid inhaling or igniting the dangerous fumes.
Once the area is dry, gently sand with fine sandpaper and apply a seal coat of linseed oil, if the whole ceiling has never been stained or sealed. If the ceiling has been finished before, try to match the stain or you will have to sand and refinish the entire ceiling. When you are satisfied with the stain's removal, coat the dry ceiling with polyurethane in at least one coat.
Once you do this you can stare at your ceiling often and know things are looking up. Good luck!
