By:Monte Leeper
Q. We have just sold our house and are moving to Florida. I have spent years developing my garden and want to take some of the plants with me. I am
wondering what perennials and annuals will survive the Florida heat and sun.
My plants include bulbs (lilies and iris), hydrangea, astilbe, bleeding
heart, blanking flower, hosta, peony, chrysanthemum and coreopsis.
A. Florida is a tropic region with quite different temperature and weather patterns. The bulbs you mention will have to be handled like annuals would be. Expect only one season, because, according to Carol Magnum, horticulturist with the Flagler County Extension, the plants will fizzle out soon after. The other plants you wrote about require cold dormancy periods to put forth blooms. Some, such as mums, require more dark hours to force blooming. Hydrangeas are probably the only flowers you mention that will succeed in zone 9. But you can experiment. Hostas, for instance, may grow in protected spots.
Remember, the heat, length of day versus night, ground temperature, acidity of soil and rain amounts, and even soil drainage, is very different from what your plants are used to. You may want to try planting annuals in the fall,
since summer is too hot, trying more regional varieties, and by all means,
contact the local county extension to find out what they know about
particular plants. As you can tell, they will be very helpful. Best of luck
in your new home.
Q. I have a 4 1/2- to 5-inch pitch in the main line of my home waste pipe. Every 15-16 months I get the line cleaned of roots, for about $200. To rectify this problem, I'm getting the large tree removed from the front sidewalk. I also have shrubs and a young Japanese maple on the front lawn.
Do you think that by removing the tree, I can at least put off the removal of
the roots for longer intervals? I also use a root destroyer at three-month
intervals.
A. The root of all evil seems to be under your front yard. You have been doing the right thing by having the lines cleaned, and even after the tree isremoved, you should continue this process. Unless you can be certain how farfrom the house you are getting root intrusion into the pipes, you are better off to be safe rather than sorry. Once the tree is removed, see if you can estimate the distance that the tree's roots are away from the point where theplumber's snake is inserted into the pipe. I would not recommend cutting everything down in the yard until you can be certain of the location of the roots. The shrubs don't generally put out deep roots and the Japanese maple has a shallow root system as well.
I am impressed to hear that you do regular maintenance of the waste lines, especially since most homeowners neglect their properties, waiting until the problem has surfaced, pardon the pun, before attempting to do anything. I
don't know why we ignore the warning signs when it comes to our homes any more than our bodies. Both need to be given a good check-up and taken care of, whether it's peeling paint, discoloration of ceilings, falling arches or
lower back pain.
Keep monitoring the maintenance procedure. Make sure to grind the stump so that the roots do not re-sprout. Certain trees will grow like a weed if not completely removed, meaning that the roots can continue to grow, even if the trunk has be cut away.
