By Monte Leeper
Q.
I need some advice on how to heat my basement. The area is approximately 12 feet wide by 25 feet long with a ceiling height of 7 feet. The upper two levels are heated by a gas/ steam Burnham cast-iron boiler approximately 6 years old. A separate hot water heater supplies domestic use. On really cold days, it is chilly in the basement and excessive moisture is not a problem. As my grandchildren visit quite often, I wish to use the basement more often as a playroom. I have had an estimate of approximately $1,500; however, each contractor had their own idea on how to achieve the end result. I realize some may give a low bid to get the job but the system may not be good. I am very anxious for your opinion. Please advise.
A.
First, close the windows to your basement to take out the chill. Get a big blanket and have everyone huddle together. Or, look for some basic solutions before contemplating a bigger project. Check for the height of the basement wall that is above the ground and how well the exterior wall is insulated. New York State Code requires (and I recommend) 2-inch thick rigid insulation at the outside of the basement wall from the ground level down to at least 2 feet below ground level. Above ground level, the walls of your house should have at least 3-1/2-inch thick insulation (Referred to as R-11) inside the wall's interior cavity or in a finished wall. Without proper insulation, you can't help but feel the chill from the outdoors. The insulation will also aid in reducing heat loss and wasted energy when you heat the space.
Next, analyze if the heat pipes from the first floor above are exposed to give off heat to the basement. By insulating, you may prevent the need for adding such extra heating units as radiators and baseboards if the pipes are exposed, since the heat they give off will now be more effective. You may, however, reduce the heat delivery to the first floor and upset the balance of the way your system was designed and installed if you remove insulation and expose these pipes. Remember, if the basement is warm, the first floor will gain heat as a direct result. If the pipes have asbestos insulation on them, do not disturb them at all. Removing the insulation could cause breathing problems that can lead to such fatal illness as mesothelioma, a fairly sad way to go.
As a next resort, consider adding a circulator and zone from your boiler. Although steam is not popular to add these days, you can find a craftsman who will do it for you. Believe it or not, a few well-placed radiators are very efficient, since they hold heat long after the steam has stopped circulating. A hot-water baseboard system can also be added, with some modification of the present system you describe, by circulating of the coil of your boiler. Plumbers explain that this may not be possible, since many boilers are now built more efficiently, using a flash method for "instant heating," so that a method of running a separate pipe in the hot water of your boiler may be required.
Bear in mind that my comments are going to invite plenty of letters from plumbers who think I should have suggested adding a small, separate zone heating unit, converting to hot water instead of steam, etc. And you know what? For various reasons, they are all right, depending upon the method they use and the end result. I strongly reccommend calling a plumber you can trust for good advice. I am always open to their suggestions and have heard of many alternatives that will work. The price you mentioned is about average for the work.
Readers are encouraged to send
questions to: HERALD Homes, 379 Central Avenue, Lawrence, N.Y. 11559
Attn: Monte Leeper, Architect.
