BY Marcia Abramson
I was looking forward to visiting Barcelona, the capital of Catalonian, Spain. A city renowned for the works of the great artist Picasso and its fascinating architecture dating back many centuries to the modern buildings of the 20th century. Since I had not been to this northern Spanish city before, I decided that a guided shore excursion was my best bet. My first stop was at the Avinguda de la Catedral, the place for concerts and a small daily market for the sale of antiques and old books. Unfortunately, I was not there on a Sunday morning when devotees of Catalan culture dance the traditional sardana. Another good time to come to the square is at Christmas when all sorts of decorations and cribs are sold. However, there are so many marvels here, that I believe that any time is a good time to be here. As I walked along, I found myself at the College of Architects where the font of the building has some remarkable engravings by Picasso depicting popular fiestas in Barcelona. The lobby, too, has wonderful Picasso murals.
Further along I came upon what is described by architectural buffs as a modern facade on the 600-year-old Catalan Gothic Cathedral of Saint Alalia standing in the same square. This is truly an outstanding example of the Gothic era dating back to the 13th century with additions to this structure in the mid-15th century. Additional building of the main font and a slender spiral dome was completed in the late 19th century. Also very impressive to me was the iron gates at the four different entrances to the cathedral, the stained glass windows, the nearby cloisters and the historical events that took place in these sacred halls. Also in this entire zone is the Gothic Quarter which surrounds the cathedral. It is a labyrinth of narrow streets full of history with interesting shops and beautiful palaces. This was described to me as one of the most characteristic and historically important areas in the entire city. As I meandered through the streets, I thought I was looking at some awesome life-sized sculptures representing figures in Spanish history like Christopher Columbus and Queen Isabella, until I noticed a few of them leaving their pedestals and posing for pictures with the tourists. These mimes provided me and the other tourists with some lively entertainment and good souvenirs to take back home.
Next on my tour was the Rambia in this same area, known to be the most famous tree shaded boulevard and notably Barcelona's most famous venue for promenading and shopping for leather goods, Lladro porcelain, castanets and tambourines, and other craft items. I learned that originally the Rambia was just a riverbed delineating the outer limits of the 13th century city wall. Then a promenade was formed with protective gates to protect the many entrances to the city. Eventually the need for these defenses became unnecessary and the walls were destroyed and Rambia became an integral part of Barcelona. Houses, hospitals and colleges were built along the Rambia. The promenade came to life in the 18th century when the trees were planted and benches were placed along the way. As I got to the center, I saw stalls with varying merchandise for sale including colorful flowers, animals, newspapers and magazines, craft work, Tarot card readers, portrait artists and the usual street performers who attracted curious onlookers. One of my most memorable things on this tour was being able to step over a mosaic work (Pla de l'Os) by Miro set in the pavement in 1977 and dedicated to the nearby market. Another must see is the Architect Gaudi's Church of the Sagrada Familia, still unfinished after a 1884 start. I think that is where the word "gaudy" came from, for this is the most ornate edifice I have ever seen. Some of my fellow tourists described it as looking like melted wax drippings. I was intrigued by the whimsical touches of the colorful fruits of the various seasons atop different sections of the building.
My short visit to Barcelona did not give me the opportunity to get to the Maritime Museum, the Picasso Museum, the Shoe Museum, the Monumental Bull Ring (the only Modernist bullring in the world), the Textile and Costume Museum and the old Jewish quarter from medieval times. I was informed that there are still some remnants of the year 1314, in a grave stone. Another thing unique to this quarter are milk bars where the most delicious hot chocolate is served.
This Renaissance Cruise with its many destinations from Venice to Barcelona just whet my appetite to return to Barcelona with a set itinerary. But it was great to have this overview without the need to change hotels, rush to catch a plane, train or bus, and know that a comfortable state room was waiting for me in the harbor. Since Barcelona was my last port of call, I was sad to leave my new friends and the genial hospitality of the Renaissance 6 Crew from Captain Dimitrios Flokos, hotel manager Robert Steginga and the knowledgeable Brad Ball, who provided me with invaluable information for these columns. Your travel agent or Renaissance Cruises at 1 (800)535-5350 can give you more information.
Copyright by Marcia Abramson