By Marcia Abramson
I was delighted when the Renaissance R6 Cruise ship arrived at Ajaccio, the capital town of the island of Corsica. When I spent time at Ville France Sur La Mer, on a clear day, Corsica was visible from the balcony of my villa. It was always my wish to explore the island that gave birth to the Emperor Napoleon. My ship docked right in the port city of Ajaccio within a short walk of the center of the town. I found myself on an island rich in history dating back 500 years before the birth of Christ and occupied by Phoenicians, Romans and Moors. However, in 1769 after 2,500 years of fighting over ownership, Genoa gave control of Corsica to France. It was during this time that Napoleon Bonaparte was born to Carlo Bonaparte, a Corsican officer, on Aug. 15. This is the day to be in Corsica when celebrations are everywhere commemorating this important day for the Corsicans.
A visit to the Maison Bonaparte and the room where Napoleon was born on Aug. 15, 1769 is a must. The home was badly damaged because of the family's support of France during the times of conflict, but an extensive restoration was finished in 1799 and the furnishings, though not the originals, do represent the 18th century period. This home became a national monument in 1967. The second floor became a museum representative of the history of Corsica. The house is open to tourists. Another building worthy of a visit is the Citadel, a fortification built in 1492 and then altered in the mid-1500s during the French occupation. This was a favorite vantage point for the young Napoleon to watch the changing of the guard. Napoleon made three attempts to capture this castle edifice for France against the Corsican's fight for independence from France. His failure caused him and his family to go into exile. The Citadel is still used by the military and visits to the interior of the building are not allowed. However, the outside of the building's architecture can be seen to advantage along the Quai Napoleon.
There are also three museums within easy walking distance with wonderful historical details of the history of Ajaccio, from the founding of the town to the present day with some wonderful artifacts dating back to the 16th century. These can be found in the small private Musee de Capitellu. But the Musee A Bandera traces the history of Corsica back for 10 centuries. Period clothing, coins and weaponry are displayed with interesting descriptions. The Napoleonic era is well represented in several rooms in this building.
The grandest museum is the Musee Fesch, with its interior and exterior representing one of the most beautiful museums in all of France. Napoleon's mother's brother, the Cardinal Fesch, left money and orders in his will for construction of a building to house his magnificent collection of every school of artistic works. His goal was to educate young people in art appreciation. However, this goal did not come to fruition until 1847. During the ensuing years it served as a barracks for the military. It was not until 1852 that it was converted into a museum, and then a boy's school until 1936. I was told that it also was used as a soup kitchen during World War II. In the late 1980s, Cardinal Fesch's wishes finally were realized and the building became the museum with the most extraordinary collection of 15th and 16th century Italian art in the world. I found it to be truly marvelous. I also found the section on Napoleon to be very meaningful to history buffs.
There is also an Imperial chapel which Napoleon III saw to it that the Musee Fesch was preserved properly with the building of the Imperial Chapel. Cardinal Fesch also requested that he and his family be buried in a church in Ajaccio. This was accomplished with the erection of the Imperial Chapel which became the burial crypt for Napoleon Bonaparte's parents and other members of the Bonaparte family. A modest tomb in Paris is the burial site for the Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte, however. Many little houses were pointed out to me as the burial sites for the different Corsican families. The bodies were entombed in these buildings to protect them from the marauding armies.
Close to Ajaccio, about 56 miles north, is a fantastic natural wonder called the Calanches of Piana. They are jagged red rock formations that form natural arches and columns. When I studied the formations, I was able to see faces and animal shapes in the rock. But, I was eager to get back to town to sample some of the wonderful French pastries and fruits in the colorful market in the center of the town. I also spotted the MonoPrix, where I used to buy the most marvelous inexpensive French visiting cards and envelopes. But those days are gone and so is the stationery. However, it was early enough for me to walk back to the Renaissance R6 for a nice leisurely lunch and swim in the outdoor pool.
Copyright by Marcia Abramson
