& Visitors' Bureau that " there's no place like Salem, home to a world of enchantment, elegance and culture, like no other place on the planet Earth". There is definitely the feeling of traveling through time as you experience the charming Colonial and Federal architecture, walking the narrow brick and cobble stoned streets and learning about the rich maritime history, including the exploits of the pirate Black Beard. This historic New England City is just 15 minutes north of Boston and the site of the famous Boston Tea Party. (Dumping the tea in the harbor was a protest against the unfair taxation by the British Crown on the American colonies). Salem also made history in 1877 at the Lyceum Hall when Alexander Graham Bell gave the first public demonstration of his telephone. The Lyceum Bar & Grill is a popular destination for visitors from near and far who still have fond memories of Bell's invention before the onslaught of the telemarketers. Of course history comes alive in New England with tales of the founding of America, its revolt from the cruel King George III, the massacres, tea parties, the incredible horse back ride of silver smith, Paul Revere to alert the revolutionaries "that the British are coming" (by signals, depicting, either by sea or by land) and the infamous witch trials. Nathaniel Hawthorne's home, the House of the Seven Gables, and the title of his famous book is purported to be the oldest surviving mansion in New England. A tour of the house is a must see and is a fine example of the 17th century architecture and the addition of a gable for an expanding family. Hawthorne's other novel "The Scarlet Letter" was written when he was employed at the Salem Custom House. However when it comes to houses, Don and Dianne Papich, are the gracious owners and hosts of the Salem Inn. The Inn is comprised of three classic, elegantly restored historic 19th century homes with a total of 41 guest rooms. There is the pet friendly West House on four floors, the adjacent Curwen House, a smaller Italianate Revival building and the Peabody House where I stayed on the ground floor with my own separate entrance. There was the wonderful four poster bed, fireplace, huge dressing area, toilet and separate room with a whirlpool bath. The drawing room or parlor had a large fish tank and a birdcage with chirping lovebirds. There was just about everything, including complimentary sherry and a hearty continental breakfast to make me feel that the welcome mat was out for me. The Salem Inn was also within walking distance of the downtown area and the brick passages of the Essex Street pedestrian mall leading to Peabody Essex Museum (PEM) and the other house of distinction. This is the Yin Yu Tang house dating back to the Qing Dynasty(1644-1911). It was the home of a wealthy Chinese merchant and as many as thirty family members. Each son was allowed to furnish the bedchamber when he took a bride. I saw some of the wonderfully preserved silk wallpaper and magnificently mahogany carved beds and decorated sleeping areas. There were also three completely equipped kitchens with all the primitive appliances of that era. I have seen palaces and hovels where the oxen had better living quarters on my visit to China, but never a house where just ordinary wealthy people lived. This complete house took seven years to disassemble and reassemble piece by piece and is definitely worth a visit to the PEM. The PEM is said to be America's oldest functioning museum with a collection of 2.4 million objects in 24 historic buildings including four National Historic Landmarks, five National Register buildings and the fabulous most recent acquisition outside of China of the Yin Yu Tang House. The Salem Trolley is a charming replica of early Twentieth Century trolleys that I found to be a very enjoyable nostalgic journey through Salem's fabled witchcraft, literary, architectural and maritime history. The seven mile route includes views of historic cemeteries, stately mansions and ocean seascapes. My driver's comment that it was a shame that only a few months of the witchcraft frenzy marred the rich history and deeds of the wonderful rich heritage of Salem.Copyright by Marcia AbramsonE-mail: mascribe@aol.com
