By Marcia Abramson
It seems like an eternity since I was last in Quebec City, and I thought it was time to return. I decided to travel via Air Canada from LaGuardia Airport with a stop over in Montreal. Actual air time is less than two hours except for the change in planes in Montreal to Air Nova for the 55 minute flight to Quebec City. It is possible to fly direct by using the Newark terminal. Either way, flying Air Canada still beats an 8 or 10 hour drive, unless of course you plan to visit Vermont, Toronto, the Thousand Islands coming and going as I did on my previous trip.
Upon arriving in Quebec City, I checked into the Radisson Gouverneur Hotel in downtown Quebec, a comfortable renovated hostelry with all the amenities required for today's leisure and business traveler. The hotel is a short distance from the old city, where to my surprise I found myself in the midst of one of the many celebrations of the city with the "joie de vivre" or the joy of life. "Les Fetes de las Nouvelle France" was the treat I was in store for, celebrating the 400th anniversary of the founding of Quebec City by Samuel De Champlain. I learned that UNESCO has recognized this old city on the prestigious World Heritage list. There are only two in North America who have made this distinguished list. This city has been of prime importance because of its location on the St. Lawrence River, an entrance port to the rest of the American continent. Explorers, colonists, traders and armies have traversed this mighty river to discover and settle this region. The historic part of Quebec City still bears a strong semblance to its European roots with narrow winding streets, old stone homes and churches, ramparts and cannons, copper roofs and splendid architectural shapes. The continental flavor is everywhere from the region where "French is spoken" everywhere, but my English was understandable and I was also comfortable with my smattering of French. The scenery is breathtaking from the ethereal profile of the magnificent Chateau Frontenac overlooking the city and immediately recognizable by its green roofs or gables. The boardwalk outside the Frontenac was as I remembered it, but with the addition of a Funicular, an elevated tram to take you to the top of the Frontenac from the Port area. This area also contains the Battlefields Park on the Plains of Abraham where the decisive battle between the French and English took place. The site is within the walls protecting Old Quebec City and surprising to me is the fact that this immense fortification is still in use today. The changing of the guard can still be seen today within the walls of the Citadel (fort) and should not be missed.
There are seven museums in Quebec City from the Musee de la civilisation, Musee du Quebec, Musee de I'Amerique francaise, the Quebec Experience, Musee du Fort, the Royal 22nd Regiment Museum( a favorite of mine ), located in the former powder house (1750), and the old military prison, with a collection of firearms, uniforms, decorations, insignia and documents from the 17th century to the present, and the Wax Museum which was started in 1936 and illustrates the history of Quebec with contemporary wax figures. You can purchase one ticket for all the museums. They are all within walking distance of each other, but comfortable walking thick soled shoes are a must since there are many hills and stone surfaces. The cuisine in Quebec is superb. I was pleasantly surprised by my dinner aboard the MV Louis-Jolliet of Croisieres AML. The service was attentive and the lobster and filet mignon were palate pleasing. as was the sail highlighting the famous landmarks of the city. I also enjoyed dinner at Les Voutes du Cavour, the food was great and the setting was ideal in an old stone house. I was pleasantly surprised to find a McDonald's without the golden arches, located in an old green storefront all in keeping with the historic significance of the city.
The New France Celebration Days is an annual event lasting for five days and it is really an experience of going back in time. It is truly an exciting experience with more than 5OO actors and extras strolling through the streets. I encountered possibly the King's daughters, fur traders, missionaries, explorers, First Nation's people city dwellers, country people, the aristocracy, all in costume recreating those by gone days with music, dramas, displays, food stalls where foods of the region were sold. I tasted the most wonderful raspberries, blue berries, apples, and pastries. The arts and crafts were enticing. I did splurge on a beautiful hand blown glass cheese board which was reasonably priced.
This annual celebration will take place next year in Montreal the first week of August, starting on a Thursday, and then the second week in Quebec City where the streets will be filled with the sounds of music and merriment for one and all. It is a good time to visit.
Copyright by Marcia Abramson
