By Marcia Abramson
Not too far from Cancun and Cozamel on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula is Islas Mujeres (the Island for Women). I felt that there had to be an interesting story behind the name, but I also found something else very strange about a listing in a tourist flyer for the world-famous jeweler, Van Cleef & Arpels in Islas Mujeres. It seemed inconceivable to me that the world-famous Jewelry company of Van Cleef and Arpels would have a store on that little known island. I was traveling in Cozamel when I
first came across the name and decided that I had to see for myself if this was the very same Paris Jeweler with a posh Fifth Avenue emporium. The logo appeared to be the same, with identical spelling. I did enjoy my stay at the Fiesta Americana Casitas in Cozamel, the climate was a great escape from the New York winter but I was eager to get to Cancun to find a boat to take me to Islas Mujeres. I was asked by the local people at Cozamel why I wanted to leave that glorious diving oasis and peaceful safe island for the big high-rise buildings of Cancun, which they referred to as "the Miami Beach of Mexico." But I was on a mission to find what I thought would be a less costly Mexican Van Cleef & Arpels.
In Cancun I stayed at another Fiesta Americana, the Fiesta Americana Coral Beach Hotel for a few days. The hotel lived up to its reputation for luxurious suites, a first-class spa and excellent award-winning restaurants. It also was a short walk to the dock where I learned that there were express ferries leaving on the half hour from Cancun to lslas Mujeres. In just 45 minutes and seven miles across the Bahia de Mujeres, I was in the town square or zocalo and was rewarded with Van Cleef & Arpels, a modern storefront with the familiar sign. But it was not the exclusive jeweler. l was told that the proprietor of the store paid to use the name, but that all the jewelry was made in Mexico. The merchandise was lovely, but not what l was hoping to find. It did not resemble the fine designs from the famous jeweler.
However, my trip was not in vain. I did find a guide to take me on a tour of the island. At the very end of the island in El Garrafon National Park, there is a famous snorkeling spot at El Garrafon Reef, a lighthouse with a fabulous view from the top, and a small stone Mayan temple which was built to honor the Mayan goddess lxchel. The Mayans worshipped her as the moon goddess of fertility, delivery and abundance. The Spanish explorer, Francisco Hernando de Cordoba, came to this island in 1517 and called it Islas Mujeres because of the temple and the numerous idols of women he found on the island. Another Mayan legend is that young women were sent to the island before marriage to be assured that they would bear many children. After paying homage to the moon goddess.
The other temples on the island served as lighthouses with torches as illumination for the Mayan navigators. When the Mayans stopped coming to the island, it was left dormant except for pirates who used the island as a hideaway and a depository for their loot. Cuban fishermen found their way to the area and in 1850 the village was established. Today, the island is a popular destination for many Europeans as well as Mexicans seeking the tranquility of the pristine white sand beaches and clear turquoise waters. A major attraction are the 50 or more dive locations. The visibility can be from 40 to 70 feet with drift dives along coral reefs and wreck dives. A must see is "Sleeping Sharks Cave" which can be crowded by snorkelers. According to sports fishermen, Islas Mujeres is the best place in the world for spring sailfishing. I was told that in one day 28 sailfish were caught and then released back to the sea as part of ecofishery. The thrill and excitement is in the catch, but not in the eating. On these fishing trips it is not uncommon to see the loggerhead or hawksbill sea turtles to come up to the surface to breathe. Two turtles were reported to be seen mating close to the surface one day. I was able to visit a turtle farm where I saw turtle eggs which had been harvested on the beach and then placed in pens to keep them safe from predators. Local school children are called upon to release the hatchlings from their tanks into the wild. May through September is the best time to visit if you want to see the turtles and test your fishing skills. Peak season is from December through April.
As for the food, I found the seafood wonderful here. The fish tacos, ceviche and lobster, and traditional Yucatan barbecued fish with chili paste (tikinxik), prepared Mexican style are worth a try. The prices are reasonable. However, another must to remember when eating in all of Mexico is bottled water, cooked vegetables and peeled fruit. Most of the 600 hotel rooms are downtown with rates from $40 to $150 per night, except for the Puerto Islas Mujeres Resort and Yacht Club. The yacht club is the epitome of luxury with prices to match from $250 to $530 per night. Serenity is the key word for enjoyment in the Island for Women.
