A. A century ago, our great-grandparents washed up in their bedrooms, using a washbasin. If some water spilled on the floor, it ran into the floorboards and eventually dried because there was no insulation or drywall to saturate and ruin. Now look what we¹ve come to: creating waterproof rooms that shine up surgically clean.
When I examine work during construction, I sometimes wonder whether all the effort to make our homes water- and air-tight is worth the struggle of getting people to understand that today, materials must be installed in a certain order, sealed completely, finished to avoid damage, and maintained correctly. I was always impressed with the prototype bathroom designed in the 1940s by R. Buckminster Fuller. One of the things he invented was a home-in-a-box, an all-stainless-steel kit house that included a molded bathroom made of shiny steel. The prototype was adapted by the aircraft industry, and works very well when a couple of hundred people use it in-flight.
Getting the right seal in your bathroom, so that tile-grouted-joints don¹t absorb water and cause mold buildup, is the real task here. Once organisms make a home in the joints and crevices, they loosen the adhesives and deteriorate the joints. Behind the tile, the surface must be anti-microbial (something mold doesn¹t like to adhere to or eat), and it must have ³teeth,² a rough enough surface for tile adhesives to hold onto. In dry areas, I recommend sanding painted walls to rough them up, then applying tile adhesive. Although you can use organic adhesive, ask for the professional-grade acrylic brands. In wet areas, you need to use a wallboard that won¹t deteriorate if it gets wet. Wonderboard, Durrock, and Dens-Shield are a few good choices. Apply the adhesive over the board. Another system, called the Schluter System, can be used directly over drywall. It isn¹t well known, but it¹s actually my first choice. You apply their adhesive like wallpaper glue, then rub on a thin barrier cloth made of fiberglass-reinforced plastic. This system has been used for exterior tile and in subways, so I know it will perform best in a bathroom.
I would remove the linoleum, making sure it contains no asbestos; otherwise, have it removed professionally. If you decide to leave it, you need to rough it up for tile adhesive (which can release asbestos as well). Use a latex-modified dry-set mortar. As for the tub, I wouldn¹t even bother. Warrantees usually last no more than five years, and neither does the coating. I¹ve seen longer-lasting applications, but repairs are frustrating, and clients usually tell me they should have replaced the tub when they had the chance. Good luck!
Readers are encouraged to send questions to: HERALD Homes
379 Central Avenue, P.O. Box 220,
Lawrence, N.Y. 11559-0220
Attn: Monte Leeper, architect.
