By:Marcia Abramson
The sense of excitement permeated among the passengers of the Renaissance Cruise Ship as we approached the harbor of St. Petersburg. We gathered on the deck at dawn to catch the first glimpse of this legendary metropolis founded by Czar Peter 1, the grandson of Mikhail Romanov, patriarch of the Romanov dynasty which ruled Russia from 1613 until the Communist coup in 1917. Actually Amsterdam and Venice were the models used by the czar when he chose the Neva River as the site for the city. It did remind me of those cities because of its closeness to the sea with many channels. But the city did not become a carbon copy of the Dutch City nor Venice, another favorite of Peter. The buildings along the waterfront are very grand palaces and ornate cathedrals.
Incidentally, Kiev (now the Ukraine) was the first Russian state in the early eleventh century. Its growth was cut short by ruthless Tartar invaders until Ivan the Terrible established a new Russian empire. When Peter the Great came to power, the modernization of the country began. However, there was a great deal of family intrigue which saw Peter's half sister, Sophie take over as regent after sending the co-czars Peter and his mentally retarded brother Ivan, out of her domain in Moscow, (then the capital of Russia). Peter returned years later with a military regiment, deposed Sophie and sent her off to a convent. He then laid the cornerstone for the St. Petersburg's fortress named for St. Peter, guardian to the gates of Heaven as protection against the Swedes. Peter also started foreign trade that literally opened the door of Russia to the rest of Europe. His next step was to make St. Petersburg the capital of Russia and start an ambitious building program by requiring the aristocracy to erect lavish homes and make substantial contributions for the construction of majestic government buildings. His guidance and leadership made St. Petersburg the cultural, political and economic center for Russia during the eighteenth century.
I could hardly wait to begin my exploration of this fabled city of the noted poet Pushkin and the literary giants, Tolstoy and Dostoyevski. The Renaissance ship's extensive shore excursion program seemed to be the way to go for my introduction to the wonders of the city. With my visa and passport in hand, I was able to leave the ship and board the bus to see some of the spectacular architectural monuments such as the glittering golden spire of the Admiralty and the 220 pound 24 Karat, pure gold dome of St. Isaac's Cathedral. I chose not to spend too much time at one of the most terrifying prisons of czarist Russia, located at the Peter and Paul Fortress described by Pushkin as the "citadel of doomed power." The first church was built within the Fortress, but was not the usual church for baptisms and wedding ceremonies. Instead, it was used for burial services with tombs for Peter the Great and other dead Russian Emperors and Empresses. In fact, the remains of Nicholas II and his family who were shot by the Bolsheviks were Entombed here in 1998.
The cruiser Aurora involved in the start of the Bolshevik revolution is prominently displayed at the waterfront in the city center and presented an important photo opportunity for me. I also had my camera at the ready for a picture of the awesome Spilled Blood Cathedral and the Bronze Horseman, an equestrian tribute to Peter the Great, situated in the Decembrists (Senate Square). At the various sites, al fresco flea markets for the sale of traditional Russian souvenirs: fur hats, nesting dolls (matryoshka), army camouflage caps, scarves, enamel boxes, and post cards made for some excellent inexpensive shopping depending on your bargaining skills.
Next week's column will take us to the Winter Palace (the Hermitage), the Russian Museum, the Catherine Palace and Gardens, the Russian Museum, and an evening at the Ballet.
Copyright by Marcia Abramson
E-mail: mascribe@aol.com
