By: Marcia Abramson
Often referred to as the "Lourdes of North America" is the impressive Sanctuaire (Shrine ) of Sainte-Anne de-Beaupre. This has been the site where prayers to the "good Sainte Anne" led to some miraculous cures for the physically challenged, dating back to the end of the 17th century. And it is not uncommon, as I found on a recent visit, to see people in wheelchairs being led to the Memorial Chapel hoping to be made whole again by their pilgrimage to Sainte Anne, the mother of the Virgin Mary, and grandmother of Jesus. The Basilica's architecture is medieval in design, covered in granite to prevent fire which destroyed the first basilica in 1922. Light for the building is provided by 240 stained glass windows. I was awed by the large number of artistic treasures and the spectacular rose colored window housed in this place of worship. The interior of the church is divided into a nave with four huge pillared aisles. At the barrel vault of the nave I saw some magnificent mosaics.
Also, on the grounds is the Memorial Chapel which was built in 1878 with a bell tower from 1695, a 1700 altar tabernacle and a remarkable tomb by the renowned artist Thomas Baillarge from 1827. The Scala Santa Chapel, erected in 1891, has a stairway commemorating the one used by Christ before his condemnation.
Adjoining the Basilica is Saint Anne's Museum which relates the history of devotion to Saint Anne down through the centuries, as well as the heart rendering stories of pilgrimages to the shrine from its inception. It also showcases the many things tracing its 300-year history. These objects include old fashioned crutches and walking devices left by the pilgrims who through their devotion and prayers no longer had the need for them. On the nearby hill is the Way of the Cross lined with life-sized bronze statues cast in France between 1913 and 1946. From June through September there are candlelight processions on the grounds.
Believed to be the world's largest panoramic painting, the Cyclorama de Jerusalem is on display at Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre very near to the shrine on Rue Regina. This 45-foot high and 365-foot wide masterpiece was painted in Munich, Germany from 1878 to 1882 and brings to life Jerusalem at the time of the Crucifixion. The visitors to this fascinating presentation cannot help but feel that they are in the Holy Land back in biblical times. There is an admission charge to the Cyclorama and the Museum, but the Basilica and Chapels are dependent upon voluntary contributions with no fixed price.
After leaving these sacred institutions and continuing on the Cote-de-Beaupre along the north shore of the St. Lawrence River, just east of Quebec City, I saw some truly wonderful architectural treasures and glorious vistas. The drive along the Avenue Royale, one of the oldest roads in North America, winds its way along the bottom edge of the hills and is rewarding in bringing to view the beauty of Mont Sainte-Anne, the rural countryside with its 200-year-old houses and agricultural areas.
I stopped for lunch in the town of Baie-Saint-Paul, settled in l678, making it one of the oldest towns in Quebec. Prior to eating at one of the sidewalk bistros, I had to take a stroll down the colorful narrow streets and window shop in some of the charming boutiques and art galleries. It was no surprise for me to learn that this picturesque little town, located in a tranquil valley, has won the hearts of many artists and is depicted on many a canvas. It has been called the "Artists Paradise." After my walk, I stopped at an inviting micro brewery, "Le Saint-Pub," set in a beautiful garden atmosphere with colorful plans and flowers everywhere. It was highly recommended for its fine cuisine as well as its light and dark beers. The mussels, brought in from St. Edward Island, were huge and even better than the ones I had at St. Edward's some time ago. They were served with either a smoked salmon or garlic mushroom sauce. I chose the garlic mushroom sauce which was luscious. The appetizers and desserts were also excellent.
After lunch, I decided to visit the Centre d'Art de Saint-Paul where I saw some wonderful landscapes and floral oil paintings by Charlevoix artists who draw inspiration from their fantastic surroundings. The Centre also houses some magnificent tapestries and serves as a showroom for local crafts people. All in all, this little town has a great deal to offer the tourist who is seeking amongst other things some clear pristine air to inhale.
