Marcia Abramson
Bath is known for its therapeutic hot springs and its most famous resident, the author Jane Austen, who lived there for five years in her early 20s until just past her 30th birthday, from 1801 to 1806. I learned that even though Bath is the only city Jane Austen really knew and was the locale for two of her six novels, she never liked Bath and preferred the country life to living in the city. Devotees of Jane Austen point to her books, "Northanger Abbey" and "Persuasion" as indication of her familiarity with life in Bath. Her other novels "Emma," "Pride and Prejudice," "Sense and Sensibility" and "Mansfield Park" have references to this metropolis mainly as the place for social events and health reasons. There is no doubt in my mind that Bath has a fondness for the most part to memories of Jane Austen. On my last visit to Bath I went to The Museum of Costume where there was a display of the Regency dresses and gowns that were believed to have been worn by the women in the Jane Austen books. However, the only time I remember Jane Austen mentioning clothes in her books was to point out to one of the characters that the bottom of her dress was dirty. The importance of Bath to Jane Austen's life and work is also stressed in the Jane Austen Centre on Gay Street in a Georgian town house in the heart of the city. There I saw an exclusive film depicting her life, family and various dwellings in addition to furnishings, food, books and writing materials of that era. I also understand that the city remains much as Jane Austen knew it with the same streets and public buildings reminiscent of the elegant, well-disciplined world that she portrays in her novels. The centre also conducts walking tours to the places where Jane lived, walked, visited and shopped. I found the history of Bath fascinating, dating back to pre-Roman days with the discovery of its hot springs when the British prince Bladud claimed to be cured of the dreaded disease of leprosy by bathing in the healing waters. The Romans built a city with glorious baths and a temple dedicated to the goddess Minerva. The city thrived for many years until the Saxons came and built their own town and church on the ruins of the Norman city. Then it was the Normans who built the Abbey in the latter part of the 15th century, which was familiar to Jane Austen. The hot springs healing powers became more popular during the Middle Ages and additional baths were built. Queen Elizabeth I recognized the importance of Bath in the 16th century and extended the size of Bath by granting the city a charter. Royalty continued to visit Bath and its success as a health and pleasure resort was guaranteed. This was further enhanced by two sojourns by Queen Anne to Bath at the beginning of the 18th century. As a matter of fact until the First World War, Bath employed Richard ("Beau") Nash as a Master of Ceremonies in charge of entertainment and hospitality. He was known as the uncrowned "King of Bath" and reigned for the first 50 years of the 18th century. He saw to it that the streets were paved, lighted and cleaned, lodging houses were improved and music and well-regulated entertainment was provided. Even today "Beau Nash" is still looked upon as a hero in Bath. His house, built in 1720 and adjacent to the famous landmark Theatre Royale, is now the home of a delightful restaurant "Popjoys." This eatery is named for Juliana Popjoy, Beau Nash's lifelong mistress. The house was originally intended for the sole use of Juliana, but Beau Nash took permanent residence at this domain after losing his own house in a gambling game. He died in this house in 1761 and was buried in the Bath Abbey where some pompous epitaphs can be found in honor of the beloved "King of Bath." Incidentally, my luncheon there of a fresh Cornish crab and lobster bisque, a whole grilled Dover sole with citrus beurre blanc and a wonderful selection of British and Swiss farmhouse cheese was simply scrumptious. Before my visit to Bath came to an end, I toured the site of the Thermae Bath Spa, the Pump Room, the Abbey and checked into the awesome Von Essen property, The Royal Crescent Hotel. My next column will deal with my wonderful experience at the Royal Crescent and Tea With Jane Austen's "Pride and Prejudice" Bennett Family and Margaret Vaughan's distinctive delicious scone recipe.For further information you can contact www.visitbritain.com or your travel agent.
Copyright © by Marcia Abramson E-mail: mascribe@aol.com
